How to Build an Arid Bioactive Vivarium for Desert Dwellers

How to Build an Arid Bioactive Vivarium.

Arid bioactive enclosures replicate an arid, desert-like environment. These conditions are necessary for reptiles like leopard geckos, bearded dragons, ball pythons, and more. In my opinion, arid bioactives are much easier for maintenance and upkeep compared to tropical bioactives.

Bioactive enclosures not only closely replicate your pet's natural environment, they are also much easier for long-term upkeep.

It's important to take time to plan out your layout before you begin assembling. Arid enclosures, while replicating dryer conditions, still need moisture to ensure survival of plants and clean-up crew (CUC). Keep your plants away from your heat lamp/basking spot to prevent scorching and inevitable death.

Follow the step-by-step guide below to create your own bioactive arid enclosure. Item links for purchasing can be found at the end of the page.

STEP 1: Assemble Your Materials

ENCLOSURE

Ensure you have an adequate enclosure size for the animal you are housing.
For a leopard gecko this is minimum 36 inches long by 18 inches deep. For a bearded dragon, this is a minimum of 48 inches long by 24 inches wide.
These minimum sizes are non-negotiable, and can be safely used for babies to adults.
It is difficult or impossible to get your lighting and heating conditions correct if your enclosure size is not adequate. Check Facebook Marketplace - there are often great second-hand deals to be found.
Make sure your enclosure is clean and dry before beginning.

SUBSTRATE

Substrate: 50/50 mix of organic topsoil and children's play sand. For burrowing species, you may also consider adding excavator clay at a ratio of 40/40/20 (soil/sand/clay). The most cost effective location to purchase your substrate is at a garden or hardware store. Reptisoil is fine, but very overpriced.
Fertilizer and Amendments: I recommend having a bag of PureLife Worm Castings on hand to use around your plants for additional nutrients.
Drainage layer: Drainage layers are not as important in an arid enclosure as they are in a tropical enclosure. However, it is recommended to use a layer of leca or gravel (washed) for the first 0.5-1inch of substrate. The most cost-effective location to purchase Leca (expanded hydroclay) is IKEA; Canadian Tire also carries it if you are shopping locally.
You will need at least 3-4 inches of substrate to ensure your plants can adequately root.

PLANTS

It's important to be very mindful when selecting plants for your bioactive enclosure. Plants that require high humidity or regular watering will not be a good fit for this type of environment.
Great options include: Dracaena, Epipremnum (pothos), Crassula, Aloe, spine-free cacti (such as the cartoon cactus/Consolea Rubescens), most succulents, and some drier species of Hoya.
AVOID genuses like Alocasia, Spathiphyllum (peace lilies), Oleander, Croton, Dieffenbachia, not only for their watering requirements but also for their toxicity to reptiles if ingested. Do your own research to ensure your plants are safe for your specific pet. My leopard geckos don't snack on plants, but my bearded dragons will definitely have a taste of whatever plants are in their enclosure.
It is ESSENTIAL that all plants have undergone a 3 month quarantine process and do not have any pesticides on the foliage. Canadians do not have to worry much about systemic pesticides, but Americans should be warned that if your reptile consumes a plant with systemic pesticide they may become very ill or die. It will also kill your clean up crew.
If you introduce plants with pests to your bioactive enclosure, it will be incredibly difficult to treat them without having to strip down your entire enclosure and start over.
Using a diluted mild dish soap and soft toothbrush, carefully clean your plants to ensure no pesticide residue remains before adding to your enclosure.
IMPORTANT: Plants dry out quickly in arid enclosures and overwatering can create too much humidity for your arid-dwelling animals. My solution is to leave your plants inside a plastic or terra cotta pot to allow for increased moisture retention. Bury the pots in the substrate and be mindful when watering to keep most of the water where the pots are located.

A red bearded dragon snacks on a plant in her enclosure. — Ginger has a munch on D. ramulosa.

CLEAN UP CREW

A bioactive enclosure is not bioactive without a clean up crew to create a mini-ecosystem.
You will need 1-2 springtail cultures and a small colony of isopods (12+).
Recommended isopods: porcellio pruinosus (power orange or blue), porcellio laevis (dairy cow), armadillidium vulgare, armadillum maculatum (zebras). Of these, Powder Orange are most recommended for beginners because they really good at staying hidden and multiply very fast.
DAIRY COW WARNING: Some folks do not house dairy cows with their reptiles, as they have a voracious appetite and may chow down on a shedding or injured animal. I personally have not experienced any issues but make your own educated decision.
Some species are more likely to become reptile food. In my experience, species like Hoffmannseggia and Zebras tend to be out and about more compared to other species who remain hidden most of the time.
Even if your pet catches the odd iso, the colony is likely to be just fine. As long as you maintain moist areas in the enclosure, your isopods will remain out of site from your reptiles and should thrive.
Don't forget to feed your isopods every now and then. While they can live on decaying plant matter, reptile shed, and animal waste, they will benefit from supplemental feeding. They only need a small amount so don't over do it or you may experience mould problems.
Pieces of carrot, fish flakes, collard greens, and Repashy Morning Wood are great additions. You can also consider feeding your isopods dead feeder insects for added protein - just keep them away from your reptile pets.
FYI - Did you know isopods are also healthy feeder insects?

A desert style naturalistic terrarium with rocks arranged into caves and basking platforms surrounded by arid plants like dracaena and a large airplant. — Lots of hiding spots will make your gecko feel safe and secure.

DECOR

Ideally, you want your bioactive enclosure to be as naturalistic as possible to replicate a natural environment for your pet. I advise against using any kind of plastic decor, plants, etc. to prevent risk of chemical leaching.
Depending on the animal, you will want several hides for your reptile. Hides can be purchased but they can also be created with natural items such as slate and cork. More hides and naturalistic clutter will make your pet feel safe, especially for something like a leopard gecko.
I prefer using cork flats for the backgrounds in my enclosures. In my bearded dragon enclosures I use no background at all. I use gorilla glue to secure to the back of enclosure and ensure adequate curing time before adding animals.
I am blessed to live in a rural region next to the Atlantic Ocean, where I collect ample slate, beach rocks, and driftwood, to avoid the costs of purchasing these items. I purchase cork from my local reptile specialty stores (Pet City and Critters N Things in the St. John's Area).
Natural stone is very important for basking areas. Ensure you have an adequate basking platform for your reptile.
To sanitize, I clean the rocks in hot water with bleach and a scrub brush, rinse well and let dry. Did you know bleach is one of the safest disinfectants to use? As long as you rinse well and let dry, any byproduct left over is just regular sodium chloride (salt). Of course, keep your pets far away from liquid bleach and fumes. NEVER MIX BLEACH WITH OTHER CLEANERS SUCH AS DISHWASHING LIQUID OR VINEGAR. THIS WILL CREATE A TOXIC GAS. Boiling rocks can cause an explosion.
To sanitize driftwood, I place it in my oven on 200F for 2-4 hours.
If you're unable to forage your own decor, I recommend finding a local reptile store or ordering from Northern Gecko.
Instead of a regular water bowl, I use Exoterra humid hide caves for my leopard geckos, and fill the top when it dries out. For my beardies, I use a terracotta watering spike/globe.
Placing additional rocks around the enclosure will help create moisture pockets for your CUC to thrive.

Bella drinks water out of the top of her humid hide.

A black leopard gecko stands on a grey beach rock inside a naturalistic vivarium with driftwood, leaf litter, and a variegated umbrella plant. — Create plenty of naturalistic hides with rocks, wood, and plants.

LIGHTING

Ensure you understand lighting requirements for your pet, including providing adequate UVB via high-quality halogen t5 such as Arcadia or Reptisun.
You will need supplemental lighting for your plants. I recommend using a T8 grow light strip parallel (or close) to the UV strip on the same timer as other lighting.
Do not place your plants near the basking light and basking stone. They will scorch and dry out too quickly.